Photos by Liam Pickhardt for Poco Farm

CULTIVATING GRACE

Grace Bueti Malloy didn’t plan on being a farm-based educator. She never planned on being in Ojai, either. Originally from Massachusetts, Grace came to the Valley to attend Thacher School, the oldest boarding school on the East End. Her parents, charmed by what the area offered, followed her out, and her father took charge of the Wood Shop program at the school. It was an exciting time, filled with horses and the outdoors. Still, her love for Ojai had yet to be cultivated. “I didn’t really care about the town, and I wanted to get out because my whole life was here,” Grace confessed.

Ready to go back East, Grace left the dry heat of the Valley for wet winters at Wesleyan University, where her eyelashes would freeze over within five minutes of being outside. But, like a stubborn weed poking through the cracks of a concrete sidewalk, Ojai’s magic eventually broke through Grace’s teenage apathy. She came to appreciate the natural beauty, the small-town vibe, and the tight-knit community.

After two years of college, Grace moved back to California to attend UCSB, earning a degree in Environmental Studies. She started working at Farmer and The Cook in Meiners Oaks on the restaurant’s farm. The land spoke to her, teaching her lessons no classroom could about growth, resilience, and the cycles of life. Grace discovered her life’s work. “I pretty much learned everything on the farm and just through experience,” she reflected. The process of working her hands in the dirt connected to her spirit. “This work is definitely a grounding practice for me and allowed me to find my passion in our relationship to the land.”  

With a newfound drive, Grace devoted herself to small-scale regenerative agriculture, a dedication that became a holistic way of life, influencing every decision she made. In this endeavor, she found an unwavering supporter in her husband, Dan Malloy. Their mutual interest in the environment drew them together. Dan, a former pro-surfer turned filmmaker who grew up in the Valley, was fully on board from the beginning.

Their early efforts included running a small farm stand in Lompoc, CA, but something was missing. “It was just a little isolating. It was so rural, and we had to commute so far...” Grace explained. The pull of Ojai remained strong, especially with Dan’s roots and her family there, prompting them to seize an opportunity for a plot of land in Meiners Oaks. “We put in an offer the day we saw the land.”

This leap of faith marked the beginning of Poco Farm LLC.

NURTURING BALANCE

I join Grace at Poco, working alongside her to remove the tenacious palm tree buds that have spread from across the street. The dirt lingers under my fingertips as I tug at the weeds, carefully removing all the roots. Left unchecked, they can cause serious problems for the crops growing next to us. A block past Andy’s Liquor in Meiners Oaks, the sun bathes the farm in a golden glow, revealing the intricate tapestry of the land. 

For the past decade, this lush plot has been a sanctuary for goats, chickens, fruit trees, and an abundance of crops. As Grace guides me through this picturesque oasis, I’m introduced to the vibrant ecosystem that thrives here. The goats press against the fence, curious to see if I have a special treat for them. I reach out to pat their heads. In the orchard, chickens cluck contentedly, pecking at fallen fruit. Rows of plants stretch out in every direction behind them. “Everything we grow and raise is for the purpose of teaching. Being successful as a commercial operation has never been the goal.” Until a couple of years ago, Grace and Dan leased land to folks who grow veggies. “Now our team does it on our own.”

Prioritizing sustainability, Poco Farm’s approach contrasts sharply with commercial agriculture, which focuses on large-scale monocultures that rely on pesticides and fertilizers to survive and often travel long distances to sell their products. Instead, Poco adopts traditional methods to produce a bounty sold locally.

To foster agricultural diversity, Poco Farm integrates an array of crops, ranging from staples like corn to grains such as amaranth, alongside leafy greens and a mix of fruit varieties. At the edge of the farm, native chaparral plants line the fence, aiding in preserving the natural biodiversity. Although not all native to the region, planting a variety of crops can still enhance local ecosystems by cycling different nutrients through the soil as the seasons pass, while the native plants help with water retention, create pollinator habitats, and buffer the surrounding urban environment to reduce the risk of disease. 

At Poco Farm, plants grow in relatively undisturbed soil, preserving the intricate network of mycorrhizal fungi essential for transporting nutrients. This method prevents the loss of topsoil nutrients and curbs the germination of weed seeds that could otherwise overwhelm the crops. “We hope to till as little as possible as time goes on,” says Grace. Poco’s approach enables the remnants of previous yield to nourish new plantings, trapping carbon in the ground and fostering a healthier and more robust ecosystem. Moreover, even weeds are repurposed as natural mulch, which not only thwarts further weed growth but also enhances soil quality by contributing organic matter and aiding in nitrogen balance.

By embracing a closed-loop, regenerative agriculture system and focusing on educational outreach, Poco Farm is creating a healthier, more resilient ecosystem that benefits not just the crops and animals but also the insects, humans, and the planet itself.

PURPOSEFUL PIVOT

Over the past six months, Poco Farm has undergone a profound transformation, shifting from a for-profit LLC to a 501(c)(3) nonprofit entity under the fiscal sponsorship of Inquiring Systems Inc. This pivotal decision was driven by Grace’s unwavering commitment to regenerative agriculture and educational outreach, informed by a decade of experience. This shift was significantly accelerated by the partnership with Darrell Forthe and the supportive efforts of Ian Campbell, Shanti Sandosham, and the dedicated involvement of Dan. Without their contributions, the expansion and deepening impact of their mission would not have been possible.

Grace, also inspired by her role as a mother, harbored a desire to contribute to a legacy of lasting change, aiming for future generations to inherit a healthier and more sustainable planet. She often reflects on Poco’s guiding principle: “to cultivate in our community members and ourselves the compassion, connection, and skill sets needed to thrive on our changing planet.” Recognizing that the reach of her farm-based educational programs was limited to those with certain privileges, Grace saw the necessity for a broader inclusion. She understood that the essence of regenerative agriculture and ecological knowledge should not be exclusive to those with the means to access it but should be shared with all, regardless of their socioeconomic background.

This realization propelled Grace and her team, bolstered by the foundational support of Darrell, Ian, Shanti, and Dan, to strive toward making Poco Farm’s resources more accessible. They aimed to ensure that everyone, regardless of their starting point, could benefit from the knowledge and practices underpinning a sustainable future. In doing so, they acknowledged the enormity of the challenge ahead, refining the ambition not as ensuring the survival of humanity per se but as contributing significantly to a collective effort that makes the planet a healthier place for all its inhabitants.

Reflecting on the transition, Grace feels a profound connection to her nonprofit work despite its new challenges. “I actually connect much more with that kind of work, and since we’ve transitioned to a nonprofit, I’ve mainly had to do computer work, which is weird because I’m starting to lose my callous and got a blister after working on the farm!” 

The metamorphosis from a for-profit business model to a nonprofit has reshaped Poco Farm’s structure and deepened its commitment to regenerative agriculture, education, and community engagement. The transition signifies a pivotal moment in the farm’s journey, as it renews its dedication to fostering a harmonious relationship between people and the environment.

Poco Farm’s achievements owe much to Inquiring Systems Inc., ISI, their indispensable fiscal sponsor and partner. As a fiscal sponsor, Inquiring Systems shoulders critical administrative and financial tasks — such as tax management, accounting, and insurance — freeing Poco to concentrate on its core objectives. This collaboration has enabled it to secure essential insurance and worker’s compensation for its staff at minimal extra cost. Moreover, Inquiring Systems’ commitment to diverse causes, particularly ecological preservation, dovetails with Poco Farm’s mission. Inquiring Systems’s support extends to strategic guidance and mentorship, helping to navigate the complexities of running a nonprofit organization. They grant Poco access to a wealth of resources, networks, and expertise to achieve its goals more efficiently and effectively. Thanks to this multifaceted support, Poco Farm is empowered to focus on what it does best — farming sustainably and educating the community about the importance of sustainable agriculture.

 MISSION: POSSIBLE

“Our mission is to create a culture of ecological inquiry that reconnects all humans to the wholeness of life on our planet, in the community, and within ourselves,” says Grace. 

Poco’s new mission rests on three pivotal pillars:

• First, provide supplemental education to local learners. At the heart of Poco’s mission lies its commitment to providing a transformative educational experience for local schools. The farm has opened its doors to school-day programs, offering them free of charge to teachers and their students. Instructors can bring their students for visits that offer immersive natural experiences and practical learning tools complementary to ecological studies. Through these initiatives, young minds have the opportunity to engage with the land beneath their feet, gaining hands-on experience in farming and cultivating a profound connection to the environment.

• Second, extend Poco’s educational outreach beyond the school day. Offering after-school programs to the broader community by donation. Aimed at teaching regenerative farming, sustainable practices, and the importance of local agriculture, these sessions are more than just learning opportunities —they are a gathering ground for fostering community spirit and collective responsibility. Participants of all ages are encouraged to become land custodians, advocating for environmental stewardship and social cohesion. While the ultimate goal is to provide these programs for free, Poco currently operates by donation to ensure inclusivity for all residents. 

• Third, donate all produce. The intention is to contribute to the community’s well-being by supplying fresh, locally grown, and sustainable food accessible to all. All the produce is either used for sampling and onsite cooking lessons, taken home by children and volunteers, or donated to OUSD and HELP of Ojai, providing essential, nutrient-rich produce to families experiencing food insecurity.

NATURAL CURIOSITY

Grace and Darrell Forthe, co-directors, are the heart of the nonprofit and pivotal in steering its direction. Grace, with her relentless drive, and Darrell, with his over twenty years of teaching experience, a Ph.D. in education, and insights from his time as a middle school science teacher at Oak Grove, aim to cultivate learning environments deeply rooted in children’s connection to the land.

Ian Campbell and Shanti Sandosham have taken the reins of the animal programs and the vegetable garden, becoming the backbone of much of the farm’s daily operations. Meanwhile, Dan Malloy lends his expertise in design, storytelling, the garden, and strategic planning, becoming an essential motivation figure within the team.

Darrell’s role in the organization extends to designing and managing its learning programs, emphasizing inquiry-based learning. This approach fosters a non-hierarchical, explorative environment where children are encouraged to learn alongside their instructors, engaging with the natural world in a manner that is both interactive and memorable. Inquiry-based learning is at the core of these activities, initiated by the children’s own questions, whether they delve into the specifics of agricultural impacts or broader existential musings.

A typical day starts with the children out on the land, interacting with the animals, crops, and natural wildlife around them. This model champions inquiry-based learning from the outset, spurred by the children’s innate curiosity and wonder.

These questions empower youth to get interested and active. Studies show this style of learning helps improve memory. When children are actively involved in learning, they are more likely to remember what they’ve learned and be able to apply it in new situations. Inquiry-based learning encourages children to think outside the box and develop new ideas, fostering creativity and innovation. When children are encouraged to explore and experiment, they develop the ability to identify and solve problems independently. “Where there is interest, there is learning,” explains Grace.

Grace observes that Darrell possesses a subtle mastery over classroom dynamics. His ability to captivate and manage students’ attention, along with his expertise, is key to the success of Poco’s educational initiatives. Together, they strive to create environments that add to children’s traditional education by intrinsically linking to their connection with the land and nurturing a new generation of environmentally conscious citizens.

RECKONING WITH AG’S ROOTS

Running a nonprofit melds passion with practicality, and finding ways to service the community that speak to important intersections of our lives can be difficult. Grace confronts the harsh history shadowing California’s farming: “There are traumatizing histories we must reckon with.”

In the Buenaventura region, a legacy of large-scale agriculture where migrant labor exploitation plagues its $2 billion industry. Migrant workers from Latin American countries, like Mexico, Guatemala, and El Salvador, are essential yet undercompensated. In fact, it is estimated that 70% of workers in the region are excluded from healthcare, suffer unsafe conditions, and wage theft, with only 18% of workers receiving their back wages in a timely manner. This has left a lasting impact on the communities, making it difficult for some families to trust in a farm school, particularly one that historically served wealthier white students.

Grace often thinks about this challenge — how does one address the exploitative model of traditional farm work that often uses migrant labor? “How can I position Poco as a healing space, to create new relationships to the land, ones that recognize the tough history that has occurred, but also ones that provide insight into the world, life, and how we fit into it?” 

Grace’s words speak to the idea of reciprocity: that all actions, intentions, and relationships involve an exchange of benefits and responsibilities, a cornerstone of Chumash values, where ‘give and take’ is fundamental. As we approach the gate and say goodbye, she shares her desire to honor the Chumash by incorporating their wisdom, especially in preparing Ojai for natural disasters. The recent floods, which cut off all Valley exits, underscore the importance of this knowledge. “If we only have one road, how can we use the land to stay resilient?” Grace questions, suggesting that Chumash practices in food, land management, and spirituality could offer solutions.

The Chumash had been the stewards of this land long before colonization, and a lot of knowledge was lost. For Grace, Poco Farm’s mission is to respect and revive this knowledge by consulting with Chumash leaders, which is both a duty and a chance to foster a sustainable food system that honors their legacy.

She contemplates the humble acorn, seemingly insignificant yet packed with nourishment, pondering its potential as a symbol and tool for this revival.

GROWING RECIPROCITY

Grace’s vision for the future is one of optimism and purpose. She dreams of a world where regenerative agriculture is the norm and people are deeply connected to the land and the food they consume. She envisions a society where ecological inquiry is an integral part of education, and every individual understands their role in preserving the planet’s health.

She hopes that Poco Farm continues to flourish as a hub of regenerative practices and ecological education, touching the lives of many, especially the youth. She aspires to see her son and the next generation carry forward the torch of sustainable farming and holistic living. Grace’s dreams are inextricably linked with a future where humans live in harmony with the earth, acknowledging that our well-being is intricately connected to the well-being of the planet.

“Ouch!” Grace exclaims

I look around, confused as to what has just occurred. I look up and see a squirrel in the tree we are walking below. “That squirrel just bonked me in the head with a pecan nut. That’s a huge ‘F.U.’ since we haven’t even harvested them because they eat them all!”*

The pecan tree will continue to bear fruit this fall, providing essential proteins and fats for the surrounding ecosystem. The squirrels will take the nuts and bury them deep into the soil, storing them for the coming winter. The pecan tree is not native here, hailing from the Southern regions of America. Although foreign, the pecan flourishes among the native Oaks, communicating through the fungal networks that exist beneath the dirt. The pecans and the acorns provide us with fat, protein, and essential ingredients to fulfill our bodies. How much can we learn from them if we just listen and give?

Robin Wall Kimmerer, the author of Braiding Sweetgrass, beautifully writes how subterranean fungal networks “weave a web of reciprocity, of giving and taking. In this way, the trees all act as one because the fungi have connected them. Through unity, survival. All flourishing is mutual. Soil, fungus, tree, squirrel, boy — all are the beneficiaries of reciprocity.”

Both the pecan and acorns provide us with nutrients for life. Kimmerer’s words bind with Grace’s work with the acorn, mirroring the symbiotic relationship existing in nature — the tree provides for the squirrel, and in turn, the squirrel spreads the tree’s seeds, sustaining its survival. The interconnection of all living things serves as a powerful metaphor for how we should approach our relationships with each other and the environment. Like the trees and the squirrels, when we give generously and act with reciprocity, we all benefit and thrive.

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* Keen readers will note it is not yet pecan season. A confession: this story should have been published last Summer. VORTEX is reader-supported. Please consider joining OLO to support local stories.